Tailleur evergreen

In this complex season, poised between variants and vaccines, openings and restrictions, a great classic returns: monsieur le suit. Two pieces stolen from the male wardrobe, which have spanned the decades and which today return to the catwalk, on streets and catwalks, revised in colors and details. The suit conveys confidence, charm, stability and refers to an idea of ​​composed and proud femininity. The most current jacket and trousers solutions have a sartorial and eternal attitude, they are often monochromatic and precious and, thanks to the use of different lengths and contemporary accessories, they dress women of all ages.

One of the first images of this garment dates back to 1933: in the magazine Vogue America the famous actress Marlene Dietrich posed in fascinating men's clothes and, together with the divine Katharine Hepburn and Greta Garbo, consecrated the suit and the androgynous style. Until the 1950s, however, the ordinary suit included a jacket and skirt; in the 60s wearing a trouser suit was almost a provocation and few were the locals who admitted women "dressed as men". Finally in 1966 the great French designer Yves Saint Laurent revolutionized the aesthetic standards and proposed the tuxedo as an alternative to the classic evening dress. Adapting a men's tailored suit to the female silhouette was a success and helped to appear more confident and strong, without losing charm and elegance. The 80s were those of female emancipation in the professional field: many women, thanks also to power dressing, assume top positions in offices, companies and in many typically male sectors. The designer Giorgio Armani, in those years, took apart the trouser suit and then reassembled it with grace and wisdom. A fluid and unstructured garment, which becomes, both in Italy and abroad, almost a uniform for the world of work.

Today, in these difficult times, the suit is once again an easy and never banal passe-partout, which offers some more safety in this winter 2022.

Elisa d’Adamo

NP Gennaio 2022